Antipodean aptitude
Having each secured a spot in the 2024 Next Gen show at Australian Fashion Week, we sat down with three emerging designers poised to cause a stir.
Abby Potter, House of Campbell
Whimsical and nostalgic are two words that immediately come to mind when thinking about Abby Potter’s Adelaide-based label, House of Campbell. Founded in 2019, the brand pays homage to Potter’s Scottish-born grandmother, Annie Campbell, who found solace in sewing after migrating to Australia in the late 1940s. Keen to distance herself from the fast-moving, trend-based fashion cycle, Potter is committed to making timeless pieces that can transcend seasons. “While I acknowledge that some labels have long championed sustainable practices and ethical craftsmanship, I noticed a real lack of captivating and unique aesthetics,” she says.
Known for her vibrant and voluminous garments that celebrate contemporary femininity, Potter’s aesthetic is informed by her time spent working as a garment technician and bridal seamstress. A sharp tailored suit is always likely to appear in her collections, but it’s the dramatic details such as bows, tulle, tartan, and frills that appear most frequently throughout the brand’s designs.
Potter’s upcoming collection ‘From the Heart’ (to debut at Australian Fashion Week) is influenced by none other than Princess Diana, who famously said, “I lead from the heart, not the head.” Potter says, “In this collection, we pay homage to remarkable women like Princess Diana, Queen Elizabeth I, and Audrey Hepburn — these iconic women exemplify unwavering determination and grace in the face of adversity, embodying the concept of resilience while maintaining their vulnerability.” She says, “The juxtaposition of theatrical influences from classic Scottish films of the ’90s with British aristocracy creates a dynamic aesthetic that merges opulence with grit.”
Potter’s next big mission will be a trip to Paris to expand House of Campbell’s European presence. “We’re actively seeking partnerships with new investors, stockists, and buyers,” she explains. “House of Campbell holds a deeply personal significance to me; it’s an extension of myself, much like it is for many designers... Building an authentic community with shared ethics has been a journey, and we’re excited to now enter a phase where we can expand our community even further.”
Amy Lawrance
At the heart of Amy Lawrance’s eponymous label lies a strong focus on craftsmanship. The Naarm/Melbourne-based designer makes every piece in her collections herself — often by hand — utilising centuries-old sewing techniques to produce sculptural yet wearable garments. Positioned at the intersection of couture and ready-to-wear, you’ll find stunning details including metallic accents, crisp origami-style pleats, and scalloped bonnets within Lawrance’s designs. Citing sci-fi classics such as Blade Runner and The Matrix as her key sources of aesthetic inspiration, her collections can be described as “wearable artefacts” with a timeless quality that transcends specific eras or genres.
While Lawrance has been designing clothes for over a decade, she recently turned her focus towards expanding her label. “I think ‘my brand’ can be more accurately characterised as a slowly evolving creative project,” she explains. “Pieces are thoughtfully designed and produced with minimal waste, with the ultimate goal of being special enough for someone to wear and hold onto for a lifetime.”
As one of four emerging designers featuring in this year’s ‘Next Gen’ show at Australian Fashion Week, Lawrance will showcase a new body of garments that she’s been meticulously working on since January.
Crafted predominantly by hand, the innovative collection will include a selection of her signature sculptural dresses, accompanied by a range of greige silk accessories. The precise detailing of her designs means that audiences will need to have a sharp eye ready to take in all the stylishly crafted technicalities of her pieces, from the socks to her avant-garde headpieces that adorn the models.
For Lawrance, it’s not the act of creating the collection that’s intimidating, but rather presenting her garments to an audience. “I think what I’m most excited for (and daunted by) is the idea of putting [my collection] out into the world for other people to take in and respond to,” she says. “I’m also really looking forward to the creative collaboration involved in presenting a collection in a runway show format.”
Later this year, Lawrance wants to fine-tune the ordering process for her customer base by launching a shoppable store on her website. But for now, her focus remains firmly fixed on the runway ahead.
Potirakis
Harnessing a grungy aesthetic befitting of The Matrix, Potirakis is a brand that crafts innovative, futuristic clothing with military grade quality. Wanting to make something that was completely his own, Potirakis was started in 2021 as the eponymous label of designer Chris Potirakis. “I don’t think I could work for someone else, it wouldn’t be as fun,” he explains, “so I decided to start my own brand.” Co-run by fellow designers Ana Kim and Hannah Flood, the label blurs the boundaries between fine art and functionality, producing pieces that are striking yet wearable.
Though Potirakis considers the brand’s identity to be fluid and ever-evolving, for their aptly-named next collection ‘Identity Theft’, the trio drew inspiration from a series of adrenaline-boosting crime films. “We make whatever we’re into at the time. Right now we’re into crime movies and all black,” he told FQ. “[The collection] is composed of 10 looks divided into categories of low- and high-class crime.”
Showcasing a selection of menswear and womenswear, the collection will focus strongly on outerwear with a streetwear edge, with playful accessories like walkie talkies and duffle bags woven in for effect. Standout looks from the range include the Liquid sequin dress — a floor-grazing full sequin number that hugs the body — and the array of crisp suiting on offer.
Following their debut in the Next Gen show, Potirakis will release drop one of ‘Identity Theft’ in June. Excited to show their carefully curated designs in front of a large audience, Potirakis admits he’s “looking forward to the business opportunities that may come from having our brand show at fashion week.”